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Updated – Upgrade A Netgear AC1450 Router to AC1750 (R6300V2)

handymanThe best opportunities are not always obvious opportunities. Sometimes you have to put together pieces that appeared in different places at different times. Having a memory for minutia is helpful. Today’s lesson in making your own good fortune comes courtesy of Netgear and a refurbished router model it offers, the AC1450. For reasons not known to me, Netgear decided to offer one router model under two different model numbers. They differ only in the firmware that controls router operations. One model, the AC1450, was initially offered only by Costco. The other model, the R6300 V2 / AC1750 is offered everywhere else.

The firmware that controls the R6300 V2 is reliable firmware. Reviews online give it generally positive remarks. Like all routers, some people say it works great and some say it didn’t work well for them.  Personally, I’ve owned six routers over the years and all have worked well. Four were refurbished Netgear routers, one was a new Asus router, and one long ago was a small TwoWire router. (I also own a couple of TP-Link travel routers. One is used to turn my Slingbox into a wireless client. The other is used when traveling. They’re amazing little devices.)

Some people have different and unhappy stories concerning router reliability. Sometimes a firmware upgrade goes bad. Sometimes the router is a lemon. Sometimes the user might have made a mistake in the setup. Buying a new router always makes me a little nervous. Doing business with a store that has a good return policy is essential.

While the R6300 V2 is considered to be pretty good, the AC1450 was given much lower marks by reviewers on sales sites. Many concluded that the firmware  on the AC1450 was faulty in some respects and it made the router unreliable. Eventually, Netgear decided to mass market a factory refurbished version of the AC1450. Current sale prices for a refurbished AC1450 range from $65 to $70. This compares to a new R6300 V2, which sells for $150 to $175.

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[Update 6-1-2015: According to a couple of comments below, Netgear firmware updates for the converted R6300V2 will not apply. Upon testing that claim, I encountered no problem updating my R6300V2, converted from an AC1450, from 1.0.3.26_10.0.70 to 1.0.3.28_10.0.71, the current release. I downloaded the update file from Netgear and manually applied it. My router was not connected to the internet at the time of the update, so I can not make any assertions about the automatic update feature.

Originally, my converted R6300V2 had a 1 year old DD-WRT Kong release installed, numbered 24345M. The router was serving as a 5 GHz client bridge. To test, I first loaded Netgear firmware 1.0.3.26._10.0.70, converting the router back to a stock R6300V2. I manually loaded the updated firmware, 1.0.3.28_10.0.71 and it was accepted with no complaints. I plan to put a newer DD-WRT release on it later and return it to bridge duties. DD-WRT allows me to use the 2.4 GHz radio as a 2nd SSID while Netgear does not when the router is used as a client bridge.

Thus, in spite of some worries expressed here earlier, and subsequently removed, there appears to be no problem with a stock firmware upgrade to a newer release. If anyone has a different experience, please report it in the comments.

Also, since writing this article last year, DD-WRT has added the AC1450 to its directory of supported routers at the ‘beta’ site, just in case you wish to go that route. Last year, converting to DD-WRT directly from the AC1450 was new and largely untested. 

DD-WRT went through a bad patch of of files a few months ago. They were reported as unreliable and of mixed quality. This problem has largely gone away, although, as always when it comes to DD-WRT, you MUST first investigate the quality of the release before you upgrade your router firmware.

Tomato Shibby will also load onto a converted R6300V2 – at least it worked for me. Unfortunately, I had to send that router back because of a faulty 5 GHz radio. I don’t know of an AC1450 specific release from Tomato Shibby. The 5 GHz radio was also faulty with both DD-WRT and R6300V2 firmware. The first conversion AC1450 / R6300V2 I purchased is still working flawlessly.

Some anecdotal reports say it’s best to install Tomato Shibby from Netgear firmware. Versions of DD-WRT released within the past year allow you to return to stock Netgear firmware just by uploading it. (Just to be safe, perform a factory reset to clear NVRAM before re-loading Netgear firmware. Otherwise, you might have problems.)  That’s how I did it. I do not know if routers from other manufacturers are this flexible.

I won’t provide conversion instructions for DD-WRT because there’s too many ways to mess up and I don’t want to be blamed if you brick your router.

Overall, never buy any router from anyone unless you can conveniently return it for being faulty. Don’t be afraid to return it. Router companies have no problem selling you something that slipped past the QC department or advertising amazing capabilities that only appear in a controlled lab setting. However, before returning it, make sure the problems have nothing to do with a faulty configuration or excessive wireless congestion from the neighbors that a little tinkering will remedy.

Sites of interest:

Anyone with more information about the Netgear firmware issue … please reply in the comments. That being said, it worked for me.]

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Many people, including me, decided to purchase a refurbished AC1450 for the purpose of converting it into a functioning R6300 V2. (DD-WRT can also be loaded on both models. I have DD-WRT on two other Netgear routers I own; a WNDR3400 V1 and a R6300 V1). At some point I may put DD-WRT on the R6300 V2, but not today. I want to play with the stock firmware and eventually turn it into an ac level media bridge that’s connected to my Netgear R6300 V1.

Why Would I Want To Convert One?

Here’s a brief list of fairly good reasons to consider buying a refurbished AC1450 and converting it into a R6300 V2 / AC 1750;

  • A refurbished AC1450 costs as much as $100 less than a new, stock R6300 V2
  • User review sites say a R6300 V2 is more reliable than an AC1450 and reasonably reliable overall
  • An AC1450 has a 2.4GHz speed of 450 Mbits/second and a 5GHz speed of 975 Mbits/second. A R6300 V2 has the same 2.4GHz speed but 5GHz tops out at 1300 Mbits/second
  • Buy two, convert them, and turn one into a 5GHz media bridge. This feature is built into the Netgear firmware on its top tier routers.
  • Bragging rights.

 [Update 9-29-2014: The refurbished AC1450 appears to be selling out fast on the entire internet. By the time you read this it may be unavailable unless Netgear restocks vendors.] 

So How Do I Know They’re The Same Hardware?

The FCC uses an identification number to identify routers. The FCC ID for both the AC1450 and the R6300 V2 is PY313200227. The skeptical might say “So what. Got anything else?”

Why, yes I do.

A lot of the information the FCC requires manufacturers to provide becomes public information. A few screen prints from the FCC web site follow.

_______________

Prompting for details via FCC ID

ac1450 to r6300-03

***

The details that follow.

ac1450 to r6300-04

  ***

The smoking gun

ac1450 to r6300-05

 ***

 How Do I Get Started?

Your overall objective is to tell the router via telnet that it is not really an AC1450. It’s a R6300 V2 and, thanks to your efforts, it has the board ID to prove it.

You first need to download a few things. These include a program called telnetenable.exe, the user guide for a R6300 V2, and the most current firmware for a R6300 V2.

Then you need to enable telnet on your PC via Add Windows Features.

You need to know the MAC address of the AC1450. This comes from a label on the bottom of the router. Write it down.

You need to access your PC with Administrator privileges (run as Administrator).

Once you’re ready to begin, you need to disconnect from your home network. Otherwise, you might accidentally mess up your main home router. Turn off the laptop wifi. Connect the laptop to a LAN port (NOT the WAN port) on the AC1450 via a wired connection.

Next you turn on the AC1450, enter a few command to tell your router it’s really a R6300 V2, upload the new firmware, then restart your router. If successful, you will boot into a R6300 V2.

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Download telnetenable.exe from MyOpenRouter.com Unzip the file. Make note of the folder in which it was unzipped. You will need to navigate there while in the Command Window. Telnet can only be run from a command prompt. Telnetenable.exe is used to open the front door into the router so telnet can finish the job.

[Update May 6, 2015: You now have to register at myopenrouter.com to download files. This is the link to the new page for telnetenable.exe.]

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[Update September 26, 2015: Reader Judd offered the following comment below. It may or may not apply to you. I have not tried it. The originally described method worked twice for me, but things change:

I bought my AC1450 at Costco in the 2014 time frame. Worked OK but would need occasional reboots. Netgear finally came out with a firmware update which I loaded. After loading I had problems with the router communicating and, when I saw your article while searching for an answer to my problem, thought I would try upgrading mine to R6300v2. I couldn’t get TelnetEnable.exe to work however. So, after more research, I found an article on wiki.openwrt.org that told me:

“New TelnetEnable on Windows

The old Netgear Windows telnetEnable.exe sends probe packets to the router’s TCP port 23. Thus, it is not compatible with firmware and routers Netgear introduced after early 2014, which require UDP port 23.

For those new devices you will need a patched version of telnetenable which supports UDP. You can find it here (github.com)

Keep in mind that the newer routers no longer use Gearguy/Geardog as username and password. You will need to provide your web interface login details. Also, don’t forget to convert your MAC address to uppercase letters, and remove any colons.”

After following those instructions, your upgrade steps worked flawlessly and I now have an R6300v2. Great article and thank you!!]

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[Update December 3, 2015: Reader Geekshriek commented below:

“I too was having issues with trying to get telnet to work. I eventually got it to work after trying what Ben said. I downgraded the firmware to “AC1450_V1.0.0.6_1.0.3” and telnet went through without a problem.”

Thanks. Great insight. However, another comment noted problems with this solution. Well, nothing ventured …. It costs nothing to try.]

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If you choose to load DD-WRT later on, this is the web site to locate a current version for Netgear routers. DD-WRT can be a little touchy to load initially. Many versions require you to flash with a smaller initial version before loading the full firmware. You should also research the version you plan to load to make sure it is stable. Occasionally, one with problems sneaks through. You might be better off with a previous version.

 ac1450 to r6300-01

***

Download the R6300 V2 User Manual, current firmware, and anything else of interest from the Netgear support page.

ac1450 to r6300-02

 ***

Enable telnet on your Windows PC. Check next to Telnet Client and click OK.

ac1450 to r6300-06

***

Sign in as an Administrator. Make sure your PC has no wifi connection to the main network. Connect the PC to a LAN port on the AC4150 (NOT the WAN port). Turn on the AC1450 and wait for it warm up.

Open a Command window via run as Administrator. Navigate to where telnetenable.exe is stored and execute it using a specific command. Replace the MAC address below with the MAC address of the router. Use all capital letters and no punctuation. I can only assume the name at the end is the user id and password to the router’s firmware. (The MAC address below is just a made up number for illustration purposes) The telnetenable zip file includes a document with an example and some useful information.

telnetEnable.exe 192.168.1.1 000FB5A2BE26 Gearguy Geardog

press ENTER

ac1450 to r6300-07

***

Begin telnet.

ac1450 to r6300-09

***

Tell the AC1450 it has been reborn as a R6300 V2 by changing the board id. Type

burnboardid U12H240T00_NETGEAR

press ENTER

ac1450 to r6300-10

***

Hopefully, you get this response. If you typed in the wrong number, do it again. It’s supposed to be a forgiving process. I got it right the first time but others elsewhere have written it’s not do or die.

ac1450 to r6300-11

***

Powercycle your router after you get the OK.

Now you’re in the home stretch. Unzip the file with the Netgear firmware.  Read any supporting documentation included. Load the R6300 V2 firmware following all instructions provided in the zipfile. A factory reset might be a good idea if it had been configured prior to installing R600V2 firmware. Restart the router using the power button after the firmware has loaded and begin your configuration. If the router balks at accepting the firmware, give it a restart before proceeding.

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Use your browser and type the address 192.168.1.1. Tell this screen you wish to connect to the internet later. The firmware provides a wizard that makes the internet connection easy. Information on how to access it is in the User Guide along with all other set up information that is relevant to your network.

ac1450 to r6300-12

***

Load the firmware for the R6300 V2, following the instructions included in the zipfile. Don’t bother the router during the upload. You might brick it.

ac1450 to r6300-13

***

After a restart, you will see this initial screen. Note the upper left corner where the router identifies itself as a R6300 V2.

ac1450 to r6300-14

Done.

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Disconnect the router from your laptop unless you plan to use it complete the router setup. Connect the internet to the WAN port on the router. You’ll need a wired connection to the router to complete the initial setup.   Your cable modem might need to cycle off and on to sync up with the new router. The User Guide will tell you how to complete the connection to the internet using the setup wizard. Complete the configuration to meet your needs.

As a suggestion, during the configuration, consider turning OFF uPnP (plug and play) on your router. Any ports left open because a connected device asked for them to be open is just an invitation to Chinese hackers who use port sniffers. Even a little old lady from Pasadena with an internet connection is a target for these people. Netgear appears to leave them open by default. I turned off uPnP when I saw Chinese hackers (I looked up the IP addresses they used) sniffing  at port 22 on my QNAP drive via Netgear router logs. They didn’t get in, but I still tightened thing up. (DD-WRT leaves uPnP off by default.)

Hopefully, it will work well for you.

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225 Comments on “Updated – Upgrade A Netgear AC1450 Router to AC1750 (R6300V2)”

  1. Joe says:

    Worked great. Had to reboot after flashing the new board id before the software accepted the new firmware. Did upgrade due to DNS unreliability issues with original firmware.

    • Carl Rinker says:

      The R6300 V2 mode appears to be stable. The only thing to do, quickly, is turn off uPnP, otherwise known as plug and play. Netgear appears to leave it on by default. Hackers will (not MAY) find your IP and will probe active devices using well known ports (in my case port 22) to see if they can break into an open session (they didn’t). If you need ports open for a particular purpose, use port forwarding.

      I’m happy with my upgraded router. It was the buy of the century. As of this moment, Newegg is the only vendor with stock and they raised prices on it a couple of days ago.

      I changed mine over to DD-WRT (Kong version) for hobby purposes. It provides a few more options and my other refurb, a Netgear R6300 V1, also has DD-WRT loaded. I plan to turn the R6300 V2 into an AC level client bridge next week and use the 2.4GHz radio on it for a 2nd SSID. This allows me to split 2.4GHz traffic between two routers and forces the 2.4GHz radio on the client bridge to indirectly use 5GHz to communicate back to the main router. On a busy router, this can relieve congestion on the wireless. If you decide to try this, be sure to use a version with good reports. Kong version 25015M has random reboots as a known issue, so by implication, others may have problems. Do research before selecting a version.

      Netgear firmware can be re-loaded easily if I ever decide to. You just load and go.

      • nafixes says:

        hey, I just picked this up from newegg refurbished…if i follow this guide and then flash ddwrt will it work? and are there any simple guides out there showing how to flash ddwrt? thanks for this guide!

      • Carl Rinker says:

        It worked for me. I flashed my AC1450 into a R6300V2 and later loaded it with DD-WRT. The Netgear firmware is fine, I can do a few more things with DD-WRT. Right now it’s a 5GHz client bridge and my R6300V1 is the main router. It also has DD-WRT on it at this time. Having DD-WRT on a 5GHz client bridge keeps the 2.4GHz frequency available on it for other purposes. It has a unique SSID. The 5GHz connection carries the signal between routers.

        Back to your question. You can flash DD-WRT after the upgrade. You need to flash an ‘initial version’ before flashing the final version you select. I used DD-WRT intended for a R6300V2 on it. One of the challenges of DD-WRT is finding the software and learning how to flash it. There’s no one guide for it. All routers are a little different and there are multiple versions of DD-WRT available. For example, I currently have Kong versions on two routers and a Brainslayer version on another. Some of the most recent Kong versions are a little unstable and Kong is no longer publishing software directly. He’s said to be contributing to the DD-WRT project in other ways. His old versions are available. I had problems with a recent Brainslayer version on my R6300V1 but found a great one that’s about 6 months old for a Netgear WNDR3400V1 router. MyOpenRouter.com has some software available. Kong’s old stuff is floating around in a couple of places. Brainslayer’s is on the DD-WRT main site, but you have to really dig for it.

        If you goof up with DD-WRT, you always have the risk of turning your router into a brick. It may be repairable. I bricked my WNDR3400V1 by loading some firmware others said was just fine to use. I unbricked it by taking it apart and using the ‘pin short method’ followed by using tftp to reload some Netgear firmware back onto it. After repairing it, I risked it all one more time by loading another initial version followed by a Brainslayer Version (24160) and it worked.

      • Ramon says:

        I can’t get past the command prompt stage where it says to type telnetEnable.exe 192.168.1.1 Gearguy Geardog. You said to disconnect the ac1450 from my fiber optic modem, correct?

  2. slam says:

    I too got on the deal and converted to a r6300v2. How do you access the logs that told you they was sniffing the port? Also when I go into win 7 file explorer and click on networks. I keep seeing a icamera popup. It disappears and comes back. This never happened with my old router. I’m running stock latest firmware. Take a look at that icamera and let me know what you think that could be..

    • Carl Rinker says:

      I have DD-WRT loaded on all my Netgear routers now so I’m recalling this from memory.

      Sign in to your router. In the Advanced section, probably under Administration, there’s a ‘logs’ selection. Look at it. If you see some IP numbers that don’t start with 192.168.1.x (assuming your network is in that subnet), then write them down and Google them. If they don’t look familiar, such as numbers you let in on purpose, then take a closer look. If you see the foreign IP number in a sentence that includes the IP number of a device on your network that was active at the time, take a close look again. If it repeats every few seconds with the last few digits changing every few seconds, the hacker is looking for an open session to crash.

      For example, 123.45.xxx.xxx ….. to 192.168.1.100:22:34567 means IP address 123.45.xxx.xxx is doing something to local device 192.168.1.100 port 22 and is hoping session 34567 is active since a stateful router will only allow traffic coming from outside into an open session. Read some of the articles under SSL and Networking to understand NAT in more detail.

      I don’t have hacker skills so I don’t know the exact means used they find your router. I doubt it’s difficult. I can see from your IP address that you’re a Comcast customer. Perhaps someone knows all Comcast IP addresses used by the public and cycles through them from time to time. The next time you power cycle your cable modem, the number will likely change to another Comcast IP address reserved for customers. Someone probably knows that one too, they just don’t know who has it. Every site your browser visits sees the IP address you come from unless you’re using a VPN service or a Tor browser.

      Plug and play (uPnP) is ON by default on Netgear routers. Turn it off, again, probably via the administration panel on the Advanced tab. Look at the user guide for details. Turning it off closes an open avenue into your network.

      If your icamera keeps popping up then that might imply a different problem. Have you ever owned or used an icamera and / or do you use one now? Assuming it’s not you just plugging in and unplugging an icamera, a buggy program on your side, or someone in your household playing a trick on you, then someone might have put a bad program on your computer and is using it to spy on you (assuming you have a camera on your pc and the driver is active).

      If you’re on a Windows PC, Zemana offers anti keylogger programming that is supposed to keep programs like that off your computer. The full program isn’t free but it has a free trial and a lowered power free version. Beyond that, look into all startup programs and see what you don’t recognize. CCleaner is free and works well here. Google all of the latter ones to see if any are malicious. If so, consider disabling (not removing) them on startup. Disable in case you’re wrong and it’s really an important program your computer needs to run.

      Or, if you don’t use your camera, turn off the driver in Device Manager.

      As always, scanning with good malware detectors is important. Malwarebytes free version has an excellent scanner. Sandboxie is also a preventative you might consider for later. The company changed hands not long ago and pricing is higher. A free version is available but it is said to contain nagware. Unfortunately, you have to always be on the defensive when your computer is involved. People you never met really are trying to get you.

      • nafixes says:

        Thank you! I will follow your guide once I receive it and look around for the ddwrt discussions and once I’m comfortable I’ll do it. Thanks again for the quick reply, really appreciate it!

      • Carl Rinker says:

        Consider waiting on DD-WRT, although researching it is a good idea. The new Brainslayer release 25179 dated 10/27 is receiving a lot of complaints in the DD-WRT forum. The overall impression is that there are problems with DD-WRT of late. This is not a scientific study. Releases after the Heartbleed fix but before maybe 8/2014 are OK. After that, there seem to be more complaints. This is only speculation on my part, but there was a consolidation concerning drivers a few months ago. There used to be NEWD and OLDD releases. Now there is only one version. Maybe that’s significant, maybe not.

  3. Newbie says:

    When i click on telnetEnable.exe it just blinks and nothing, I also ran as administrataor and still nothing. I already enable it in windows “Programs>Turn Windows features on or off>Telnet Client (checked). Any help, thanks.

    • Carl Rinker says:

      TelnetEnable isn’t a gui program. You run it in a command window like an old DOS program. Look at the pictures for more information.

      TelnetEnable works with the router. It basically opens the front door to the router. Telnet is a utility program. Telnet is used to send commands through the front door that TelnetEnable opened. They’re two different programs.

      I honestly don’t know if you need to open the Command Window with Admin privileges. I think I read that you did. I didn’t sit around and try it both ways. Using Admin level just allows you to not waste time and doesn’t hurt anything in this instance.

  4. Jim says:

    Hi,

    Thanks for the great post. I did everything that the article said but when I tried uploading the firmware it said the firmware was incorrect. Any idea what happened?

    • Carl Rinker says:

      Not really. Lots of people have followed these instructions with no problems. Did you reboot the router after changing the board id? Did you put in the right board id? Did you download the right firmware from Netgear? All the screen prints were taken from when I made my conversion, which worked. (except I used phony Mac Addresses in the prints for security purposes.)

      • Jim says:

        Ahhh I did not restart the router after changing the board ID and before trying to upload firmware. Thanks for the tip. I’ll try that and hopefully it will work! Thanks for the help!

      • Jim says:

        Rebooting the router took care of it. Thanks for the help and the great article!

      • Bunklung says:

        I had the same problem as Jim. I did not reboot the router after burnboardid was issued. Your instruction are confusing here: “Now you’re in the home stretch. Unzip the file with the Netgear firmware. Read any supporting documentation included. Load the R6300 V2 firmware following all instructions provided in the zipfile. Restart the router using the power button after the firmware has loaded and begin your configuration.” It says to load the firmware, then restart. It’s just not clear to reboot the router after you burnboardid. Thanks for your help with this!

      • Carl Rinker says:

        I added a sentence. Hope it helps.

      • Bunklung says:

        Thanks for the response. I see the added sentence.

        Perhaps directly after, “I got it right the first time but others elsewhere have written it’s not do or die.”, add, “Reboot the router with the power button on the rear”.

        Currently your updated instructions only tell you to reboot unless you have a problem. Is a reboot required after modifying the nvram? Thank again for all your hard work.

      • Carl Rinker says:

        When I researched this piece I went maybe 10 different sites that each referenced part of what I wrote. I took notes from lots of fragmentary posts. A couple described part of the process well if you read it in detail, including comments. Even with that to go on, a lot of people made the conversion long before I wrote this. I don’t mean to be rude but “restart vs reboot” and demanding just the right phrase in the right place to make everyone happy is a little over the top.

        To be perfectly honest, I only did it once and it worked. I made a couple of typing mistakes that others appear to have made and it still worked. I dimly remember having to restart the router after burning in the new board id because the router thought I was installing the wrong firmware. I’m guessing the board id for the AC1450 was still in the router’s memory, thus the need to reboot.

        Sorry for the inconvenience. But since you managed to figure it out, maybe it’s time to move on.

        If I ever buy another AC1450 and convert it, I’ll pay special attention to that part. If the directions need a little improvement, I’ll do it then.

      • Bunklung says:

        I *was* stumped and I am just providing feedback for the next user. I’m not trying to mince words, reboot/restart. I just didn’t see either of those in the procedure after the nvram change/burnboardid. Being an experienced and cautious flasher that I am, I felt a reboot could make things worse when the instructions didn’t specifically indicate to reboot. I didn’t want to end up with a bricked device 🙂

  5. hughred says:

    Thanks very much! I only bought one of these refurb Netgear AC1450 routers because of your writeup. And a very complete writeup it is.

    I could not get the procedure to work the first few times I tried it. In the end, I figured out my mistake. You said very clearly about the telnetenable.exe command “Replace the MAC address below with the MAC address of the router. Use all capital letters and no punctuation.”. Well, I had cut and pasted the MAC address from the output of the “arp -a” command, removing the punctuation but not changing the case. The telnetenable command silently did nothing (it is also silent when it works). After that, telnet would hang with a blank screen. The only way out also closed my cmd window, losing my precious command history.

    I won’t even mention the ignorant fumbling I did as someone unaquainted with Windows. That reminds me, I had better turn the Windows firewall back on.

    • Carl Rinker says:

      I didn’t get it completely right at first. Good job. BTW, don’t mess with Windows firewall. It works OK without playing around unless you know exactly what you are doing. Just download a good free firewall management program or buy an Internet Security Suite. They will manage the firewall just fine.

    • dafjld;klajfkl says:

      From reading your later posts, I think you have figured out the problem which is that you typed the wrong MAC address. I had the same blank screen problem. But in my case, I was using lower case letters in the MAC address.

      So, in summary, if anyone has the telnet blank screen problem, please check your MAC address to make sure (1) the MAC address is exactly the same as the one printed on bottom of your router (2) use only capital letters in MAC address.

  6. Sam lafavor says:

    So my issue is I cannot find the telnet enable executable in cmd. It shows c:\windows\system32> if I have the file on my desktop how would I input a command to run/find the executable? Sorry for the dumb question. Feel free to ask for more info of you need but you can just use generic “user” or “folder” and I think I will be able to get it.

    • Carl Rinker says:

      Sorry, but you’re on your own here. If elementary PC operations are this difficult for you, then you shouldn’t be replacing router firmware.

      • Sam says:

        Ended up getting it worked out. I was over thinking it. I am a total gui guy so cmd or terminal freaks me out. Anyways thanks for the guide.

  7. Don says:

    Friggen awesome…..followed everything to a T and reboot before loading firmware and now $75 router is a $200 router

    • Carl Rinker says:

      I’m happy with mine. It’s selling out fast. Some stores are restocking but the price is creeping up. Eventually, this deal will only be a memory. Netgear always seems to have refurbs available, but this was the deal of the year.

  8. Joe says:

    I have followed these instructions to a tee for my AC1450. The telnet client is enabled. I enter the telentenable.exe comand as specified. The Mac address uses uppercase letters and no colons. Like this:

    telnetEnable.exe 192.168.1.1 000FB5A2BE26 Gearguy Geardog

    only with my MAC address replaced above. The MAC address matches what is on the bottom of the AC1450 and what is showin in the admin page in the browser.

    After entering the command it goes right back to the prompt which I think is right. Then when I enter telnet 192.168.1.1 the screen goes blank with the cursor flashing in the upper left hand corner of the screen and just sits there and flash. I’ve left it sitting there for over an hour. I’ve tried this from 3 different PC’s. One running Windows 7, Windows 8.1, and Windows XP and I get the same thing on all 3 PC’s. Telnet is definitely enabled and working but I can’t get it to take the telnet command to the router. Any ideas would be much appreciated. Thanks.

    • Carl Rinker says:

      Did you navigate to the correct folder where telnetenable is located? After you ran telnetenable, did you get a screen result that looked like the screen prints? Did you verify that telnet is enabled as a Windows feature by seeing if the box is checked off when you look at the selected features? Lots of people have made the conversion with no problems, and were making it using the same basic instructions months before I wrote this piece. Maybe you got a lemon of a router from the store? I’m not there so I can only guess about what’s wrong. Google telnet for instructions on how to use it. Try giving the router a factory reset … look it up on the Netgear site for instructions.

      • b4print says:

        Yes I did navigate to the correct folder. I didn’t get any kind of error or confirmation after doing the telnetenable command. Just straight back to the prompt. After doing the “telnet 192.168.1.1” all I get is a blank screen with the cursor flashing in the upper left corner and there it stays…forever. I don’t get to a telnet prompt to enter the command “burnboardid U12H240T00_NETGEAR”. And yes telnet is enabled as I can Telnet into both an HP network switch and a Cisco Pix. Also I have done the factory reset several times. I am starting to think the router is the problem as well. It is a refurb from Newegg. Not sure if I can return a reformed unit though. I’ll have to check into that I suppose.

      • Carl Rinker says:

        Did you start telnetenable with admin elevation? Otherwise, I don’t know what to say. It worked for me the first time, even with a couple of typing errors. Lots of others have had the same positive results. Good luck.

  9. b4print says:

    Yes I opened the command prompt with admin elevation though the instructions do not say you have too but I tried it anyway. Searched everywhere but have never found anyone having this exact same issue. I have to believe at this point the unit is defective. I got an RMA from Newegg to get a replacement unit. Hopefully I’ll have better luck with the next one. Thanks for your replies.

  10. Hemanth says:

    b4print : Im suspecting your MACADDRESS is entered incorrectly… I ran into the same issue and turns out that the place where I was gettin the MAC address from in the admin page (look at router information and NOT Internet Port) that is what made the difference.

    • b4print says:

      Hemanth…this is embarrassing but that was exactly what it was. The MAC address for the Internet Port and and Router Information is exactly the same thing except the internet port ends in 29 while the Router Information ends in 28. And of course I was looking at the wrong one! At least I can console myself in the fact that I’m not the only one this happened to. Thank you for the reply and suggestion/solution.

  11. nafixes says:

    So, I got the router today followed the guide. Works perfectly! Easy and clear guide. Thanks again, I will keep an eye at DDWRT and its updates!

  12. Steve says:

    Does anyone know where I can find step-by-step instructions to do this on my Mac?

    • Carl Rinker says:

      telnetenable.exe would be the issue, I suspect. Telnet is otherwise universal. I have no Mac experience. telnetenable is a small non-gui program. Is there an emulator you can download?

      I saw a reference to a program called telnetenable.py. Someone with a similar problem wrote about it. Python is used to drive it. Why not take a look and share your experience here in the comments.

  13. qme says:

    Can you please tell me how to restore the boardID back to original? I followed the step but the unit is not able to come online. I can apparently still telnet and change board id. the unit itself may be defective (I never checked the original one as is and directly went to updating it) . I have opened an RMA with newegg but would like to change the unit back to its original settings. All I probably need is the board id for AC1450 ?

    • Carl Rinker says:

      The board id for the original AC1450 is U12H240T99_NETGEAR

      Others who have changed their’s back have said this should do it. You will need to re-install the AC1450 firmware if you had previously put the firmware for the R6300V2 on it.

      Did you use a browser and try to get in at 192.168.1.1, making sure to disconnect from the main network first? Otherwise, 192.168.1.1 will get you to the main network router on most home systems. I forgot once while doing something else and accidentally reset my main router.

      Did you try to upload the new firmware? A power off/on clears up a lot of issues, providing you do it when nothing of significance is happening at that moment, such as an upload or upgrade. If it’s just sitting there and nothing has happened for several long minutes, it’s probably ok. Use your best judgement there since I can’t possibly know what everyone tries on their system.

      • qme says:

        thanks for the info. I hope just reverting the board id should be okay for the rma. ( I dont know if telnetenable does some changes to the firmware that needs to be closed?)

        I never got to the point of being able to upload new firmware.. Before that, I tried the IP address directly from a dedicated computer connected through LAN (cleared all caches). Sometimes, I will see a partial webpage on one of the address (if I tried http://192.168.1.1/genie_index.htm) but then afterwards it was pretty much stuck on all the links. .. I tried the telnet/boardid change several times with different reset/powerup configurations that I am aware of as chip designer myself.. but same issue. So I hope for better luck on next one.

  14. joe says:

    Hi. Everything worked on my AC1450. However I only see the 2.4GHz and not the 5GHz … is there something i need to do to broadcast the 5GHz SSID? the modem configurator says it’s broadcasting …. I’m using my Galaxy Note 4 to check wireless things out.

    • Carl Rinker says:

      This is why I recommended downloading the manual for the R6300v2 with the firmware. I read manuals. You should to.

      I never even tried using it in AC1450 mode. If it’s still in AC1450 mode, download that manual.

      My R6300V2 conversion has DD-WRT on it now because I’m using it as a 5GHz client bridge and DD-WRT offers a better bridge than Netgear. But 5ghz worked on it when it still had Netgear firmware.

      • joe says:

        The issue is the latest firmware version. I downloaded and installed one revision older and everything worked as expected. I see both 2.4Ghz and 5GHz.

  15. Thank you for your site. It helped me effortlessly convert my AC1450 to a rock stable R6300v2 last month. If you have some insight into DDWRT I have a question for you: I have a client wireless ethernet bridge that runs DDWRT and would really like to use some features from DDWRT on my AC1450 converted to R6300v2, also the management features and status in the Netgear firmware are lacking. I want to convert it to DDWRT once and for all. Some people on deal forums suggest that before I convert the AC1450 to DDWRT that I first switch back to the AC1450 burnboardid, and flash the AC1450 FW, but that seems silly. I’ve flashed many a Linksys router in my time to DDWRT and as long as the underlying hardware identifies the same, you can use the build for your SOC. So should I roll my router back to AC1450 and re-burnboard to AC1450 before switching to DDWRT or just start with the initial build? What’s a good build of DDWRT?

    • Carl Rinker says:

      I went from AC1450 to Netgear R6300v2 to DD-WRT on my router. In fact, I converted the R6300V2 back and forth between Netgear firmware and DD-WRT a few times.To go back, You just upload the Netgear R6300V2 firmware.

      To load DD-WRT (or reload after converting back to Netgear firmware) you have to load the initial version first before loading the final version.

      I’m currently using 24345M OLDD (Kong) http://www.desipro.de/ddwrt-ren/K3-AC-Arm/. The proper initial version should be on this page somewhere, too.

      The main DD-WRT site has more recent versions. Look under others\eko\Brainslayer\2014. The forums there make them appear somewhat unstable at this time. All DD-WRT is at your own risk. It’s possible to brick your router if you don’t do it right. Read up on it first. The Broadcom forum on the DD-WRT website is the correct place to get current news.

  16. portillos says:

    Great post. Thanks very much, I bought the AC1450 and did the upgrade; your instructions worked perfectly. Loved seeing the gui change as the firmware update completed. Feels like I got away with one!

  17. Dave says:

    I’ve been trying to do this all morning, and have come up short! I didn’t run the routers configuration wizard before starting this process, and I’ve been wondering if I should?

    After running the telnetEnable command with the credentials from the router’s base, I then run the telnet command. However the command box remains stubbornly empty; not the BusyBox prompt that your instructions show. Any thoughts?

  18. Dave says:

    Never mind … you didn’t say to use the credentials off the router, so me doing so was my silly fault. Gearguy/Geardog FTW! :o)

  19. Don Louie says:

    Thanks for the update info. It took me a long time to finally use ALL CAPS for the mac address. Then it was easy sailing for the update. Any recommendations for an AC wireless card for laptop?

    • Carl Rinker says:

      Thanks for sharing your problems. I can almost guarantee others have or will or would have the same problem. I’ve certainly made my share of interesting mistakes when trying new things.

  20. Cote says:

    @Don Louie I added an Intel 7260 to my Wife’s Dell laptop. It’s FAST. It can lock in at 866 within 10 feet and runs about 500mbps in the next room. These cards attach directly to the motherboard and are not your standard PCMCIA card.

    • Carl Rinker says:

      I’ve had my eye on that card for a long time but two of my laptops are HP. They use whitelisted parts, meaning that those cards MIGHT not work in them. Both are newer. One has Windows 8.1. Any insights about this would be appreciated. The other is a Toshiba that needs to be taken apart just to put in a new card. I’m not up to it unless the HPs get upgraded.

      • Cote says:

        I didn’t run into the whitelisting issue, although it was partially a risk when I ordered it. I could not get the BT to work and the workaround for that was to tape one of the pins, which I wasn’t interested in the risk and I have no immediate use for BT. You can pick up USB/BT adapter for dirty cheap.

        If you order from a reputable vendor you may be able to return in. It’s fairly cheap at about $25-$30. I do think Intel is refreshing this SKU for another .AC module, so that might explain why the price is low. Good luck.

        My wife’s laptop was a dirt cheap Inspiron 15 ($229) it runs Win 8.1 and doesn’t have an Ethernet port. With the 7260, there really is no need for an Ethernet port. Even the USB dongle I own ($10) is slower than the 7260 since it’s on 100mbps. It’s just amazing how much of an improvement 802.11ac is over 802.11n. This is coming from somebody who’s entire house is wired Ethernet and has been poo pooing on wireless for ages because it frankly was slow.

  21. Chad says:

    Great instructions; thanks for doing this. I just can’t figure something out and I’m hoping someone knows what is going on. After I begin telnet (and when the command window says “telnet 196.168.1.1” at the top instead of “command prompt”), the window is just a blank, black screen except for a flashing cursor in the top left. I can move the cursor around but can’t type anything. I can’t figure it out. Please help.

    • b4print says:

      I had the same problem. I was using the wrong MAC Address. From the Home page in the router settings click the Advanced tab. Use the MAC address under “Router Information” and not the one under “Internet Port”.

      • Chad says:

        Thanks. I saw your post above and already tried that. I’ve tried everything that I can think of. I’m starting to wonder if the router’s new firmware prevents access to telnet. Please let me know if anyone has any ideas.

  22. Buck says:

    Chad, I hit the same problem on the second router I did. The problem is that something isn’t working with the telnetenable.exe command, so the telnet client essentially hangs. You got the MAC address or something wrong in the telnetenable.exe command. Also, I don’t know if it matters, but I ran my Command Prompt as administrator.

    Carl, thanks a ton for the instructions here. I now have a pair of upgraded routers which I purchased refurbished on Amazon (via third-party seller DealFisher).

    • Chad says:

      Buck, thanks, but I’ve triple-checked everything and spent hours making sure everything was right, and I’m still having the same problem.

      • Kirby says:

        I have the same issue as you. I have flashed my ac1450 with the latest firmware and not sure this firmware prevent me from converting to R6300v2.

      • ejism says:

        Been fighting this for two days. I’m having the same problem as Chad, cannot update to R6300. I’m using the correct MAC address, also. Double checked everything. Netgear Genie still shows AC1450 Firmware version v1.0.0.14_1.0.6. I tried to update to Firmware version 1.0.0.22 (got from Steh Fan), but get error “not correct firmware!”
        My telnet prompt looks different from photo. Carl has a hashtag, I get the Microsoft Telnet prompt. ‘st’ command shows that I’m connected to port 23, but it will not accept burnboardid command.

      • ejism says:

        I should clarify. If I enter telnet at prompt, I get the black screen with blinking cursor. If I hit “control ]” at blank screen (or enter telnet.exe) it goes to Microsoft Telnet prompt. Tried to use PuTTY, but I get the same black screen with the blinking prompt. Very frustrating.

      • Carl Rinker says:

        Are you using ‘run as administrator” for the command window, telnet, and telnetenable? This is different from just being an administrator in your user profile.

        Why not Google the conversion instructions. I’m not the only one who wrote about making the conversion. Also, Netgear had another router that was convertible; only the board ID was different. Maybe you’ll see something stand out.

      • Don says:

        I just purchased a new (not refurb) Netgear AC1450 from B&H Photo. I tried everything here. TelnetEnable.exe appears to work OK – returns to command prompt – but telnet, as others have noted, just hangs so I can’t run burnBoardId. Fortunately, the unmodified AC1450 works just fine as a Ethernet/media bridge.

  23. DaveR says:

    Carl – Thanks so much for this article and tip. I’ve been using a humble Engenius ESR1200 as an access point for my home network, connected to my FiOS modem/router (which, if you ignore the slow and unsecure wireless, is actually a pretty good router). But I kinda sorta bricked it tonight with a bad firmware update. This refurb upgrade is the silver lining — for roughly the same price, I get a superior Netgear router with better throughput. And even if the upgrade doesn’t work, the base AC1450 probably gives me comparable performance.

    Question for you: if I’m using this as an access point only, would you recommend going with DD-WRT? Or is the basic Netgear firmware good enough? Thanks much!

    • Carl Rinker says:

      I like stock firmware. The only times I change it out is if it’s defective, I’m treating the replacement as a hobby project, or if it can’t do the job I need it to do. I originally put DD-WRT on a refurbished Netgear WNDR3400V1 because, a few years ago, I needed a 5GHz wireless bridge and virtually no stock firmware supported a competent wireless bridge. Unless you feel like exploring a new hobby, I would stay with stock firmware. It should support a fine access point. And, if you meant wireless access point, stock firmware is much easier to configure. DD-WRT has a lot of hoops you are asked to jump through … why … I don’t know.

      Re: DD-WRT wireless access point – besides the additional work involved to configure it, I tried to take the WNDR3400V1 and turn it into a DD-WRT wireless access point to gift it to a relative. The newish release completely knocked out the 2.4GHZ radio on it in wireless access point mode (2.4GHz worked fine if it was set up as a router or wireless client bridge). 5GHz appeared OK. After wasting a day trying to figure out what I did wrong, I reloaded stock firmware and the wireless access point fired right up perfectly on the first attempt.

      My two active routers (Netgear R6300V1 and a converted R6300V2) both refurbs, have DD-WRT. It still supports the best wireless bridge mode available. The Netgear bridge mode knocks out the 2.4GHz frequency on the bridge by design. I like having a second 2.4GHz SSID available for this and that. I’m exploring OpenVPN and my main router is hosting it in server mode. (see my new articles on this.)

      Also, DD-WRT of late looks a little unstable in the newest releases, at least that’s the impression the DD-WRT / Broadcom blog forum provides to me. Both my routers have older releases that date to just after the Heartbleed fix. I will update to newer releases when a) I need to, and b) get the impression that the newest releases have a good track record.

      • DaveR says:

        Thanks much — I did mean wireless access point, as I’m doing exactly what Cote/Bunklung notes in the comment below. I turn off the FiOS router’s radio and use a more modern router as an AP to service the laptops and smartphones in the house. (The server is plugged in directly to the router, as is a desktop in that room.) Sounds like stock firmware is the way to go. (I used to have an old Linksys that I hacked to be a bridge, but it’s not necessary anymore — the X360 I used with it was replaced by a newer one with built-in wireless.)

        If I get really ambitious someday I may put a repeater on the second floor, as coverage is spotty up there — but that’s another kettle of fish entirely.

    • Cote/Bunklung says:

      @DaveR I Don’t use DD-WRT on my converted R6300V2. However, I do run it in AP mode. I use my FIOS router as the sole router in my network with the wireless off (for on-demand video, on screen callerID etc). I have GigE switches all over the place. R6300V2 works fine in AP mode, I have had zero issues with it. You plug into the WAN port (uplink) for this mode and can use the LAN ports for any nearby wired hosts. It acts as a switch in this configuration/mode.

      I am familiar with DD-WRT as I use it for SSH/Socks (whr-g54s) and as hardware VPN (WZR-HP-G300NH v1). I wouldn’t recommend installing DD-WRT unless you have a specific feature you can’t get with your current router/firmware.

      • DaveR says:

        Yep – that’s me! I’ve been doing the same thing with the Engenius. Much cheaper than the Verizon router upgrade (which is only an n-level wireless unit, I believe, in any event).

        I don’t need any of the more advanced features — I don’t access my network from outside the house, and don’t have any tunneling VPN setups or such to worry about — so stock looks to be the way to go.

        As a final aside: right before I quit for the night last night, I realized that I might not have bricked the Engenius at all. I may have just knocked it back into setup mode, such that its radios are turned off and it’s looking for someone to configure it… I’m going to futz around with it a little more tonight. But I’ll probably replace it with the Netgear even if it works, as I haven’t been 100% satisfied with it.

  24. BenC says:

    I am unable to get the telnet 192.168.1.1 command to work after following all the instructions. I get this message… “Could not open connection to the host, on port 23. The requested service provider could not be loaded or initialized.” Any thoughts?

    • Carl Rinker says:

      Not really. These instructions have worked for a lot of people and people were following similar instructions long before I wrote this after reading those instructions.The only difference is that these have more detail and include pictures.

      Try again. Use ‘start as administrator’ whenever you can. Use the right MAC address if you see more than one. Read everything and don’t ignore a detail just because you think ‘this doesn’t apply to me.’

      • BenC says:

        Thanks. I tried with and without admin and have triple checked everything was being done exactly as described above. I have tried multiple times and keep getting the same message. I will try updating firmware and try again. Frustrating when it seems you are the only one it is not working for.

  25. shady says:

    I purchased one of these from amazon for 69.99 and got the firmware update working fine based on the instructions I read here. Up and running as R6300v2. Thanks!

  26. nkid says:

    how do I revert it back to AC1450, thank you for your help!

  27. Steh-Fan says:

    Hi,

    Thanks for the excellent page and the continuos help!
    I just updated my refurb 1450 to 6300v2 and had a little issue to overcome and thought I would share it.
    The 1450 came with the 1.0.0.8_1.04 firmware loaded. When I went through your protocol, even though the burnId showed ok, the router was not accepting the 6300v2 firmware. I first had to update to the 1450 firmware 1.0.0.22_1.0.10 and repeat your process before it was accepting the 6300v2 just fine.

    I’m only surprised to see the wireless modes up to 450 and 1300 Mbps, respectively. Is that supposed to be>

    Thanks!

  28. nkid says:

    I tried enable telnet on 6300v2 using “telnetEnable.exe 192.168.1.1 “MAC” Gearguy Geardog” but it did not work. Send Failed 10057.
    can you help, thank you!

    • Carl Rinker says:

      Everything I know about this is in the article. It worked for me, although I made a fair amount of typos along the way. It still took only a couple of minutes to finish the job. Google your issues. I’m not the only one who wrote about making a Netgear router conversion. Read what others wrote about converting Netgear routers. Or send it back.

    • dafjld;klajfkl says:

      I had the same problem saying Failed 10057. You know what. You probably connected your cable to the WLAN port. You need to connect the network cable to the LAN port of the router.

  29. nelaco says:

    Just did mine. Super easy. Thank you for the great instructions!

  30. RSB says:

    At the risk of sounding ignorant, if I’m reading the instructions correctly, the firmware gets installed twice. Once after changing the board name and a second time after rebooting. Am I reading that correctly and if so, why is this necessary?

  31. Harry says:

    I have two ac1450 converted to ac1750 and running on Kong 24345M OLDD dd-wrt firmware as suggested by you. First of all, thank you for this great tutotial .
    I connect these two router via wireless bridge setup, but the speed for the bridge seems to max out @ 876 Mbps. That is ac1200 speed. Shouldn’t it be 1300mbps? Will upgrade to newer dd-wrt firmware fix this?

    • Harry says:

      I might have done something wrong. I changed the board id to ac1750, then upgraded to netgear r6300 firmware, then later I converted it to dd-wrt. I should have reversed it back to ac1450 by changing the broad id first, and then converted to dd-wrt.

      To fix the speed problem, I think I have to change the board Id to ac1450, then hopefully I can flash netgear ac1450 firmware back. Then start the ddwrt upgrade process again.

      • Carl Rinker says:

        I upgraded my router to a R6300V2 and then installed DD-WRT. Actually, I went back and forth a few times between DD-WRT and Netgear stock firmware because I had a few problems with DD-WRT. Reverting back to an AC1450 isn’t going to make a difference as far as DD-WRT is concerned.

        Advertised maximum speeds are theoretical. Nobody in real life gets them. I think I remember that Netgear couches their terms by saying ‘up to 1300 mpbs’.

        I have both a R6300V1 and a R6300V2. I think both have reached 1300 on the display for a few seconds, but appear to mostly state 866 or something similar. Actual wireless speeds over the bridge I tested are about 1/2 of that.

        DD-WRT is not the rock solid stable urban legend that appears to be popular belief. If you get a stable release for your router it offers benefits that stock firmware doesn’t. If you need one of those benefits and you feel lucky, it’s worth a try. I’m running 24345M OLDD on the R6300V2. Kong stated that later versions of his might not be stable. The DD-WRT / Broadcom forum makes the newest Brainslayer releases look extremely iffy, although they’re slowly getting more reliable, at least that’s my impression. New versions come out with fixes every couple of days. I get the impression that the versions available from myopenrouter.com are more reliable, but some offer fewer features.

    • Carl Rinker says:

      Thanks. BTW, I didn’t suggest 24345M OLDD. That’s the one I use on my R6300V2. It works for me. I’m happy it works for you.

      About the only selection recommendation I would make with clarity is select one from after the Heartbleed fix, but only if you need features that were involved with the Heartbleed fix. Otherwise, any version should be fine if it works reliably for you.

      Some versions work fine. Some will brick your router, especially if you select the wrong one. It’s always a risk with DD-WRT. Even if 100 other people say it worked perfectly for them.

      • Harry says:

        The degradation of wireless bridge speed (i.e. 866mbps) was caused by my 3 AC1200 USB adapters logging onto the same signal. Duh! Once these adapters were removed, bridge speed jumped to 1050-1300mbps.

        So I may have to get one more refurb AC1450 to create a “private” wireless bridge.
        Thanks for your help.

  32. dafjld;klajfkl says:

    It appears that my stock AC1450 firmware is fairly stable and fast. Are there benefits to upgrade to the R6300V2 then? I understand that the 5G speed will be bumped up to 1300 mb, but will this increase in bridge speed have real benefits for the performance of say firetv in real life? Has anyone done any comparison between the two firmwares in terms of real life performance? thanks.

    • Carl Rinker says:

      If it ain’t broke, don’t fix it. Internet reviews make the AC1450 firmware appear unstable. Some reviews claim to experience no problems with stock firmware. Now you have an option to take advantage of it needed.

      Speed wise, actual wireless speeds are never even close to advertised speeds. Depending on your actual use, even an N600 may be adequate for your everyday wireless. The AC1450 is a great deal regardless.

      • dafjld;klajfkl says:

        thanks for the comments. It turned out that the AC1450 firmware is buggy. it couldn’t connect my ubuntu laptop’s wireless card. I just upgraded to R6300V and it is working fine now. Thanks for the very detailed instructions. Using speedtest.net, the new firmware is about 2 Mbps faster than the older AC1450 firmware.

  33. JJ says:

    Worked like a charm! Speed is off the hook! Was not sure how to close telnet but everything else worked perfectly for the configuration as outlined. T H A N K S !!

  34. jlwlynn says:

    I received my router yesterday and I immediately upgraded to the R6300V2 after purchasing (thanks for the great howto!)! But, I am seeing an issue that I cannot explain. The speeds on the 5ghz side are just perfect; I couldn’t ask for better. Unfortunately for devices that can not support 5ghz, the speeds on the 2.4ghz side are TERRIBLE. I have tried with multiple devices on the 2.4ghz access point with the same results. And it’s not just the difference on what they are able to support; I’m getting about 1/40th-1/50th of the speed. I wish I had better figures from testing, but I was only able to fool around with it last night. Any ideas on what could possibly be causing this issue? I’m open to suggestions!

    Thanks!

    • dafjld;klajfkl says:

      did you go to advanced—backup—reset to factory default, after you upgraded to the new firmware?

      • jlwlynn says:

        I did not! I will give that a try this evening. Thanks!

      • jlwlynn says:

        Well, I tried resetting to factory default with no luck. I was still getting the same speeds/throughput as before. Oddly enough, I changed the ‘speed’ on the 2.4ghz side to “up to 217mbps” and I’m getting better speeds. Not great, but better. I believe the 217 setting is just halving the bandwidth (channel spread), correct?

      • Carl Rinker says:

        ‘Up to 217 mbps’ means you’re getting from nothing up to 217mbps. Technically, the router determined you had 2 channels (possibly 6 and 11 or 1 and 6) assigned for use and there was minimal interference from your next door neighbor. If you were to use LanSpeedTest you would actually see a much lower number, perhaps only 35mpbs. That’s more than fast enough to watch a movie but still a disappointment. AC speeds are also lower than advertised, but much faster than 2.4GHz.

    • jlwlynn says:

      I believe the ‘up to 217mbps’ is just the standard 20mhz bandwidth which is actually 4 channels centered on whichever channel you specify. The ‘up to 450mbps’ should be 40mhz bandwidth, or as I like to call it: Screw the neighbors! 😉

      Well, I found out what was causing my issues… or at least partially causing my issues. We have two baby monitors upstairs and turning them off increased download speeds two-fold and upload speeds five-fold. We’ve had these running for quite some time and they never really affected the old router, so I assumed there wouldn’t be any issues with this one. Well, I was wrong. 🙂

      I experimented with turning them back on and testing speeds. I have been centering on channel 1, the least busy in my neighborhood, so obviously speeds plummeted again when the monitors were turned on. Centering on channel 6, the MOST busy in my neighborhood gave me equal performance to having the monitors off. Interesting! I thought channel 11 would be even better, but I was very wrong. Throughput was worse than on channel 1; unusable upload speeds in fact.

      I’m back to a happy Netgear customer. Thanks for all of the replies!

      jason

  35. nelaco says:

    I am having the same problem. Wi-Fi speeds are terrible. I tried all kinds of tweaks.

    I am going to return it but somehow I am not able to revert back to AC1450. I’ve been Goggling for an answer but no luck.

    I am trying the same as the first time….

    telnetEnable 192.168.1.1 MACADDRESS Gearguy Geardog

    It says send failed 10057.

    Telnet 192.168.1.1

    It says port 23 not open.

    I checked everything and I really don’t believe I am doing anything wrong. The user name/password must be different on r6300 V2.

    Does anyone know how to make this revert work?

    I am using my old WNDR3700 again. Much faster. The problem I am having is that I have to reboot it everyday, so I was hoping the AC1450 would end that problem.

    Thank you for any help you can give me.

    • dafjld;klajfkl says:

      for the 10057 error. did you make sure that the network cable is connected to the LAN port on the router. If you connect the cable to the WAN (yellow port), you will get the 10057 error message.

  36. nelaco says:

    Yeah, I did use the LAN port. I also did a factory reset after upgrading and performance stayed the same.

    Thank you

  37. papi says:

    Hey thanks for this tutorial. I did not even try the factory firmware. Jupdated to 6300v2 and it has been stable with great speeds.

  38. kartrock says:

    @Carl Rinker Thanks for taking the time to post this for the good of humanity! I was almost ready to take the plunge, until I read about an issue posted on dd-wrt. One of the complaints was that R6300 V2 on AC1450 causes a device to lose IP after waking from sleep mode, an issue the user didn’t have with the original AC1450 firmware. I don’t know if this issue has been resolved with R6300 V2 firmware updates or not. I was wondering if you and others can chime in if anyone is facing this issue. Thanks.

    • Carl Rinker says:

      All internet connections based on tcp/ip potentially ‘lose’ their ip address regularly. All routers lease it for a short period, often a day, and renew it automatically. The renewal process is transparent. ANY router that does not handle ARP functions properly is defective. The problem you are describing is unique to a specific instance, I presume. Something like that would have been a source of outrage on forum sites if it were common place.

      Based on reading hundreds of Amazon, Newegg, and other router reviews for all brands and models, I have come to the conclusion that buying any router is a dice throw. Most users have no problems. Some users have problems because of inexperience or poor connectivity. Others buy a lemon. Always save the receipt and buy from somewhere that takes returns. Don’t feel bad about making a return if you think it’s a lemon. The manufacturer who sold it probably knows all of the strengths and weaknesses of the item and sold it to you anyway. A lot of the problems, if any, seem to be firmware based, implying a ‘fix it in the field’ mentality.

      DD-WRT is a great alternative that offers features which can extend a router’s capabilities. It’s not perfect, though. The DD-WRT / Broadcom forum makes it look like they’re trying to get the most recent release working properly. When it comes to DD-WRT, you should consider not upgrading to a newer release unless you have a need for it as each release had the potential of being a new experience in an area important to you.

      • kartrock says:

        Thanks for your prompt and detailed response. I am having lots of DHCP problems with my AC1450. Even though DD-WRT list shows this router is supported, I just can’t find it on their download database- any thoughts? I am no networking guru, but here’s the post I was referring to earlier, from Kong, a DD-WRT Guru, that deterred me from moving forward with R6300V2. I’d appreciate your thoughts on GrayGeek’s experience with R6300V2 and Kong’s response, here’s the link to the forum page, please see the first post:

      • Carl Rinker says:

        I didn’t look at your link. DD-WRT is an individual experience. Although I’m using it I would never recommend it over anything else to anyone or say one release is better or worse than another. I’m currently using one of Kong’s releases on my R6300V2 conversion, 24345M. That router is working as a 5GHz bridge. My R6300v1 is my main router and is using a different Kong release. http://www.desipro.de/ddwrt-ren/ is Kong’s repository, including initial flash releases. Kong is no longer adding to it. Kong recommended 24345M OLDD if newer releases of his are causing problems. Current DD-WRT releases are from someone named Brainslayer. My working theory is that if you can’t find it you shouldn’t be playing with DD-WRT since you can easily ruin your router by making rookie mistakes.

        myopenrouter.com is another DD-WRT source for Netgear routers. I have no experience with their releases but Netgear appears to occasionally reference them from various pages of theirs.

  39. Kelvin says:

    Thanks for the site. changed successfully to the R6300v2 with a couple of attempts with re-read the instructions etc.

    Question… has anyone looked at the “see full map” in the Windows 7 Network and Sharing Center? It still list the name as AC1450 not the R6300v2. Any ideas why?

    • Carl Rinker says:

      Is it seeing the router name? Change it and see if the map changes.

    • Cote says:

      Sounds like you didn’t factory reset the router after the firmware update. I think I made the same mistake.

      • Kelvin says:

        That was it. After a reset (push the red button) it now shows in the windows topographic network map as a R6300v2.

        Interesting the auto-email back from Netgear after reregistering them, they indicate that they are AC1450.

        I liked it so much I have purchased a second one to use as my router in addition to the access point.

        thanks,

  40. Gopal says:

    I got refurbished AC1450 and installed in normal way(GUI). My internet speed thru modem cable is showing 97mbps. And with new netgear ac1450 shows only 7 Mbps. So I tried to google and saw ur post.I was able to do the first step if running telnet exe file and boardid command successfully.in the second step of installing R6300v2, when I type 192.168.1.1 and provide userid and password it shows AC1450. My question is how do I change this to R6300v2. Please advice

    • Gopal says:

      I have fixed the problem and now the setup screen shows R6300V2. But still my Wi-Fi speed is only 7 Mbps where as with cable speed is 97mbps. Also Iam not able to see 5G (dual line)in the Wi-Fi search. How do I get it. What should I do to improve the speed.

  41. I’m having some speed issues similar to what a few other folks reported. I’m getting about 60 mb/s on 5.0 ghz which is fantastic, but I’m only getting 13 mb/s on 2.4 ghz after successfully upgrading to the AC1750. I was originally only getting 2 mb/s on 2.4 ghz, but I did a factory reset and played with the settings quite a bit. I’ve tried channels 1, 6, and 11 with all 3 modes and this point, and the best is channel 11 with 450 mb/s. That’s how I’m able to get 13 mb/s right now. My previous router was a Netgear N300 WNR2000 on “auto” channel and 150 mb/s, and that was able to get 25 mb/s. For reference, I’m getting my speeds from speedtest.net.

    Anybody have any suggestions?

  42. Matt says:

    TL;DR version: For those who are having trouble getting Telnet to work on the 1450, try updating the firmware (for the 1450) to v1.0.0.22_1.0.10 before running the telnetenable.exe command.

    My story:
    My router (received today from amazon) shipped with firmware v1.0.0.8_1.0.4, and i couldn’t get telnet to work. It was getting caught at the login screen and was not sending me to the # prompt.
    I tried downgrading the firmware to 1.0.0.6_1.0.3, and i still was not able to connect via telnet. (fyi, downgrading was easy, it just asked me to confirm that i wanted to go to an older version.)
    Finally, i upgraded to the 1450 firmware v1.0.0.22_1.0.10, rebooted, and then was able to telnet into the router.
    Also, after running the burnboardid command, i had to reboot the router before it would allow me to upload the R6300v2 firmware.

    • Razvan says:

      I ran into that problem today. Thank you for posting this fix. I will try again to flash the router. I really did not know what was going on, I was completely lost.

  43. Sunny says:

    I just followed the instructions on this page and it worked for me the first time. Thanks for the detailed instructions.

  44. Razvan says:

    Once I hit enter for the “begin telnet” section, the CMD just turned black and nothing was showing. Anything that I was typing was not appearing. Would that be a problem caused by me, or is this a problem with the PC itself? Should I attempt to do it with another pc?

    • Matt says:

      Razvan,
      I should clarify my steps:
      1) upgrade to the v1.0.0.22_1.0.10 firmware.
      2) reboot the router.
      2) run the telnetenable.exe command. Unless you’ve changed the username or password, the default username/password for the command will be ‘admin’ and ‘password’, not the Gearguy/Geardog given in the above example. My command looked like:
      “telnetenable.exe 192.168.1.1 00FF00FF00FF admin password”
      3) reboot the router (i don’t remember if i did this, but it can’t hurt).
      4) Run telnet.

      I hope that helps.

      • Matt says:

        So, it turns out that if you type telenetenableDOTexe, it gets removed from the post. It happened to both of my posts, so here it is again for clarity.

        1) upgrade to the v1.0.0.22_1.0.10 firmware.
        2) reboot the router.
        3) run the telnetenable command. Unless you’ve changed the username or password, the default username/password for the command will be ‘admin’ and ‘password’, not the Gearguy/Geardog given in the above example. My command looked like:
        “telnetenable 192.168.1.1 00FF00FF00FF admin password”
        4) reboot the router (i don’t remember if i did this, but it can’t hurt).
        5) Run telnet.

      • Razvan says:

        Thank you for the Guide. I found a fix on it yesterday that someone commented on here and took their advice. I was able to flash it, and everything seems to be working right for now. Again, thank you. I couldn’t have done it without your guide.

  45. Adam says:

    I am getting the blinking telnet prompt too. I updated to the most recent FW for the 1450. Razvan what did you do to get yours to allow you to telnet in?

    • Razvan says:

      I just had to update the firmware. Make sure your MAC address is correct. Other than that I have no idea what could of went wrong. I had to restart like 8 times before I knew what I was doing. I used WordPad to save all of my addresses and text. I also found out later that I had a mistake in my mac address, so I’m sure that also had to do with the error.

      • Adam says:

        A buddy and I figured it out. You have to use the Gearguy and Geardog when running the telnetenable command with your MAC address. I was trying the web logon admin and password with no success. Thanks for the help.

  46. tim says:

    Hey, thanks for the guide, got my firmware updated to the r6300v2 no problem. I wanted to see if I could flash the firmware back to the ac1750 but for some reason now when I run the command:

    telnetEnable.exe 192.168.1.1 “My mac address” Gearguy Geardog

    I get an error that says: “send fail: 10057”

    Have you seen this before? Do you know of any possible solutions?

    • tim says:

      For some reason I cannot type out the correct command. I am using the telnetEnable executable command and getting that error.

  47. SaRa says:

    I bought refurbished AC1450 router from ebay/dealfisher. I downloaded latest firmware from netgear and flashed to AC1750 R6300v2 successfully few days back as per the instructions in this website. I am on 50mbps speed with my ISP. On my cable modem and on route’s wired ethernet connection, I get speed up to 55 to 60 mbps. On 5GHz, I am getting good speed from 20 to 50 mbps.
    But on 2.4ghz, speed is dropping considerably. sometimes I get 3 mbps and sometimes up to 20 mbps. The speeds fluctuates a lotand its terrible. I have tried with multiple devices on the 2.4ghz access point with the same results. I did speed test from speedtest.net

    Other issues I am having is that, sometimes I can not access http://192.168.1.1 at all and sometimes internet connection just drops. When the internet connection drops, I am able to access 192.168.1.1. I have to restart cable modem/router to bring back the internet connection.

    Anyone have these issues ? Any inputs and suggestions is appreciated.

    • Carl Rinker says:

      I don’t know if these ideas will help. They’re standard solutions to the problem you mentioned. 1) Make sure you’re at ‘n’ only on 2.4GHz. 2) Try a fixed channel, not auto, and change it from one to another to see if it’s interference from a neighbor on the same channel. 3) Use the reset button and reset the router to defaults, then type in the old configuration – not reload from a saved file 4) Try DD-WRT but find a stable release and load the proper init file before loading the stable release. DD-WRT is always a risk so make sure you know what you are doing before you do it and still cross your fingers you don’t brick your router. I’m on Kong 24345M on my R6300V2. It seems to work OK. If you brick it I have no idea how to fix it.

      • SaRa says:

        Thanks for your reply. I followed your ideas #1 and #2. Now during the day time, I get about 15 to 20mbps and during night I get more than 30mbps. This is HUGE improvement. Thank you so much for your suggestion. Now, Can I enable my 5Ghz ? If I enable 5Ghz, will I get better speed on 2.4Ghz ? Appreciate your reply.

      • Carl Rinker says:

        In general, 5GHz offers better throughput than 2.4GHz because there is less congestion from your neighbors on 5GHz. The range is less because it does not pass through walls and other barriers as well as a 2.4GHz signal. Unless you’re on AC technology, the speed won’t be a massive improvement, just maybe better if any. Of course, you need a 5GHz capable device to process a 5GHz signal. AC will provide perhaps 10X better throughput on a good day with the right technology working. The 1300Mbps on the box is only for marketing purposes. If you actually get 500Mbps on a 1300Mbps rated router, you’re doing pretty good.

    • I have the exact same symptoms speedwise. I’ve had no issues accessing the login though or dropping connections. I tried changing all sorts of settings on my 2.4 before settling on one. By changing channels, I was able to jump from only 2 mb/s to about 13 mb/s. Not near as good as the 50-60 on 5.0 ghz, but still a huge improvement.

      If anybody has any other solutions, I’d love to hear them. I have not tried DD-WRT yet.

  48. Kevin says:

    This is great! However, after updated to R6300v2 firmware, telnet got no longer available on my router. nmap doesn’t show port 23 open, telnet and telnetenable gets “connection refused” all the time

    • tamaj says:

      are you on ddwrt or stock firmware? if stock fwr, download the previous version. latest fwr seems to have an issue broadcasting 5Ghz ssid..

      • Carl Rinker says:

        Both my R6300V1 and R6300V2 are using older Kong releases of DD-WRT. The newer Kong releases (when he still issued them) and the mainstream releases appear unstable to me, according to DD-WRT forum posts. Quality is improving as it appears the developer is trying to work the kinks out and complaints are decreasing in quantity. I have no plans to upgrading to newer releases until the DD-WRT Broadcom forum gives the impression of a track record of better reliability. I think the problems started with they merged the NEWD and OLDD releases into one build, but that is only a guess.

        DD-WRT offers a couple of features that are not available with stock firmware. If I didn’t need them, I’d probably still be on stock firmware.

  49. Allen says:

    My router is coming soon and I’m going to use your excellent how to to upgrade. Just a hopefully quick question, if you have time to answer: Should I disable Telnet Client on my Win 7 Computer after setting the router up? Is there any reason to or not to disable it?

    Thanks!

  50. SaRa says:

    Recently I connected my 2TB external Hard drive to usb port (both usb 2 and usb 3) and tried to access it on my windows 8.1 machine by \\READYSHARE\USB_Storage. I was able to navigate the folders on the external drive for sometime. When I tried to copy some files between 2 folders on the drive, it seems to freeze up. When I try to access router’s 192.168.1.1 login page,I could not connect. I have to restart my router again to see the files on the external drive. This readyshare connection does not seem stable for me.

    Anyone having this issue, if so, what is the solution ? Your inputs and suggestions is appreciated.


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